Konnichiwa! Four days in Tokyo is like drinking from a firehose, but in the best way. I’ve done this trip so many times I stopped counting after the tenth, always the same route with tiny new surprises. Here’s how I do it without losing my mind.

Day 1 – Land, drop bags, straight into the chaos
I usually roll in on the Narita Express, one hour and I’m at Shinjuku, backpack still heavy but eyes already wide. My favorite little guesthouse is in Kagurazaka, old geisha quarter, quiet streets, five minutes from the madness. First thing after check-in: Shinjuku at golden hour. I go up to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building (free observatory), watch the sun drop behind Fuji if I’m lucky, city lights start blinking on like someone flipped a switch.

Then food. I’m starving. Golden Gai for the vibe, tiny alleys, bars the size of closets, I squeeze into one with space for six people and order whatever the mama-san puts in front of me. After that, Kabukicho just to see the lights, but I never stay long, too many touts. Instead I walk south to Omoide Yokocho, smoky yakitori alley under the tracks, meat still sizzling, old guys yelling cheers. First night I’m asleep by midnight, jet lag wins.

Day 2 – Shrines, gardens and getting lost on purpose
Early start, 6am at Meiji Shrine. Forest swallows you the second you walk through the torii gate, city noise gone, just gravel crunching. I watch people write wishes on little wooden plaques, always makes me slow down. Then loop through Yoyogi Park, old couples dancing rock’n’roll, punks practicing guitar, dogs in clothes, pure Tokyo weekend energy.

Breakfast is onigiri from a 7-Eleven (don’t laugh, the egg salad one is perfect) eaten on a bench. Then Harajuku, Takeshita Street for the chaos, but I escape fast to Cat Street, calmer, better coffee. Afternoon in Shibuya, cross the scramble once just to say I did, then up to the tiny izakaya under the Yamanote line tracks in Ebisu, my holy grail. The master grills chicken skin until it’s basically candy, cold beer from the tap, train rumbles overhead every three minutes, best soundtrack ever. I stay till they kick me out.

Night – Nonbei Yokocho again, different bar this time, maybe the one with the jazz records, or the one where the owner only speaks in movie quotes. Tokyo after dark feels safe and insane at the same time.

Day 3 – Old and new, east side day
Morning in Asakusa. I get there early, Senso-ji still sleepy, old ladies sweeping, incense everywhere. I buy a fortune, shake the stick, always something cryptic that makes sense later. Then Nakamise street for snacks, ningyo-yaki filled with red bean, still warm.

Train to Yanaka, my favorite hidden neighborhood. Old wooden houses, tiny temples, cats sleeping on shrine roofs. I spend hours just walking, zero tourists, feels like Tokyo from another century. Lunch at a tiny soba place where the old man makes noodles by hand in the window.

Afternoon – Akihabara for the chaos, but I skip the maid cafés and go straight to the retro game shops and the tiny standing ramen joint under the tracks (again with tracks, I have a problem). Then Ueno Park if the weather is good, street performers, cherry trees if I’m lucky with timing.

Evening – back to Shibuya, but this time up high. Shibuya Sky at sunset, 360 view, wind strong enough to mess up my mustache, city lights come on one by one below. I stay till it’s fully dark, then one last ramen before collapsing.

Day 4 – Whatever I missed and sayonara
Last morning I usually go back to one spot I loved most. Sometimes it’s just sitting in a kissaten with terrible coffee and perfect toast, sometimes a quick dash to TeamLab Borderless if I have energy. Then one last Lawson chicken for the train, and I’m off to the airport, already missing the sound of salarymen running for the last train.

Four days, zero boredom. Tokyo never runs out.

Next field trip soon,
Kohl